All that is required is soldering and some drilling, filing, and cutting of a plastic project housing. Time to complete is about 0. It is still not perfectly safe, even with the improved safety features. Do not buy or build or use DIMP unless you take full responsibility for the safety of yourself and others nearby.
|Published (Last):||15 July 2004|
|PDF File Size:||11.55 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||11.28 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
All that is required is soldering and some drilling, filing, and cutting of a plastic project housing. Time to complete is about 0. It is still not perfectly safe, even with the improved safety features. Do not buy or build or use DIMP unless you take full responsibility for the safety of yourself and others nearby. Only adults with a proper understanding of the risks may attempt to use DIMP.
Assembly requires drilling and filing the housing so that some parts will be exposed to the user. You might need four 4 4 x 0.
You can substitute sheet metal screws if you can't find self-tapping screws. If you are patient enough to fit the enclosure together with tight tolerances, you can forgo the self-tapping screws, as the enclosure can essentially clamp the PCB in place. Currently out of stock; new batches will get a new ebay listing. You can set a saved search for "DIMP desulfator" and find the new listing when it comes back.
Please note that the BoM does not include the output leads because you will want to choose the right ones for your batteries. Choose a red and black pair of test leads that have 4mm banana plugs preferably sheathed and stackable on one end and the clip type that will fit your battery terminals. They must be able to handle up to VDC and 5A. Make sure the clips you choose are safe and fully-insulated, exposing as little metal to the operator. The original K resistors are meant for VAC mains.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. The PCB should fit in the "bowl" easily and the four mounting holes should line up with the plastic bosses in the bottom of the bowl. Now is your chance to find pin 1 on each of the switches and on the diode bridge.
It's also a good time to make sure you have every part. Note that these switches are a bit shorter than we would like. We'll have to elevate them a bit so that the actuator sticks out above the lid far enough to be operated with fingers.
If the switches are soldered flush with the board, they can be operated with a screwdriver. On the bottom of SW1 are two plastic feet with an off-center notch cut in each foot. The notches are closest to pins 1 and 3.
Ignore the number that might be molded on the bottom of the switch. It does not appear to be a pin number. Match the notches up with the silkscreen on the PCB, then while holding the switch so that it's as high off the PCB as possible and parallel to the PCB, solder in pins 1 and 6. Alternately, you can insert a plastic shim underneath the plastic feet of the switch and remove the shim later.
If the switch is not level, adjust pins 1 and 6, resoldering them until the switch is parallel to the PCB. Allow enough time between resolderings for the pin to cool down to avoid melting anything inside the switch. When the switch is level, solder pin 2. GENTLY slide the switch and test with a multimeter to make sure that it shorts pins 1 and 2 when on and breaks the short when off.
D1 is a D3K package. It's asymmetrical with the pins on the back side. Align the bridge with the silkscreen and holes on the PCB. Look for the semicircular notch on one side to locate pin 1. IMPORTANT: If you accidentally flip the bridge around backwards, the red and black outputs will be reversed, and that is very dangerous for your batteries and the user!
This switch does not need to be elevated like SW1 and SW2. This switch has markings on the body to indicate the pin numbers, and it also has a the and 0 sides marked. Align the switch with the silkscreen and solder all four pins in place. Test continuity with a multimeter while flipping the switch off and on. Because the AC power inlet is designed to snap into 1. Get some hot glue, apply it to the snaps on the inlet, then quickly insert it into the holes and press it flush with the PCB.
Do not solder it yet. Let the glue dry, then solder it. Solder all the remaining parts in place. Start with the shortest, smallest components.
It might be a good idea to hot glue down the small 2mm test jacks. Put the PCB on top of the bowl part of the enclosure with the components facing up. Keep the PCB centered over the mounting holes. Get a marker and mark the edges of the power inlet on the enclosure. This is where you will cut a rectangular hole in the enclosure. The marks should be 21mm apart.
The rectangular hole will be at least 15mm tall to start; you will file further to fit. Try to keep the tolerances tight, as a tight fit will help support the AC power inlet when you insert and remove the power cord. On the other end, mark the edges of the 4mm banana jacks. The marks should be 28mm apart and centered in the middle of that end of the enclosure. The rectangular hole will be at least 14mm tall to start; you will file further to fit. This hole can be W-shaped or U-shaped if you prefer, to fit the silhouette of the round banana jacks.
Get a coarse flat rasp or file and cut a shallow 1mm to 2mm deep notch that is purposefully less wide than the marks at the AC power inlet end. The idea is to properly center the PCB and work up to the minimum width necessary to fit the inlet. As you file, confirm that the PCB is correctly centered over the mounting holes below it. You can use long, thin dowels to check the alignment.
Gradually widen the notch, filing each side as needed. Eventually you will widen the notch and be able to fit the inlet in the shallow notch such that the PCB is properly centered. On the end with the 4mm banana jacks, start cutting a shallow 1mm to 2mm deep notch, also purposefully undersized.
Because the banana jacks are round, this side should be undersized by a larger margin. Using a thin hobby saw or Dremel cutting wheel, cut out 13mm-deep V-shaped notches at the AC power inlet end to form a W-shape. You'll file the bottom out later. On the 4mm banana jack end, cut out a rounded W-shape.
You'll file out the sides and bottom later. Continue removing material from the holes until the PCB is able to fit all the way down on the mounting bosses. Alternate between the ends so that the PCB stays level as you gradually lower it into the bowl. When done, the top edge of the AC power inlet and the capacitors should be roughly flush with the top edge of the bowl.
Look through the translucent plastic and mark where holes will have to be drilled for the two 2mm test jacks in the sides of the bowl. Remove the PCB from the enclosure and drill the holes. They must be at least 2mm in diameter but can be slightly oversized if you like. Now for the lid. There is a small alignment tab on the lid that should be positioned at the AC power inlet end. Make sure the screw holes are centered over the threaded inserts.
If you have some long machine screws, those can be used to keep the lid aligned over the bowl. With a marker, mark the locations of the rocker switch. Use a bright light source if necessary to see the switch through the translucent case. The outline should be no more than 21mm wide and 15mm high. Drill through the lid leaving plenty of extra material around the final edges of the hole.
You will use a small file to work your way up to the final edges for the best fit and finish. File the rectangular hole leaving about 1mm on each edge.
You will finish after cutting the rectangular holes for the slide switches. Keeping the lid aligned over the bowl, mark the positions of the actuators of the slide switches.
It helps to shine a really bright light from the side of the bowl so you can see where the actuators are through the lid. You will have to slide the switches to both positions to determine the full extent of the rectangular holes. Using a small drill bit, drill through the center of each marked hole. You should use a small drill bit because the bit will probably not end up near the final center. Using the square needle file, start opening up the slide switch holes gradually so that they fit over the actuators and allow the actuators to be slid to both positions.
When the slide switch holes are done, the lid should now fit lower over the bowl, but it will not be able to fully close because the thin edge around the enclosure's lid will be blocked by the tops of the 4mm banana jacks and the AC power inlet. File down the lid's lip so that there is clearance for the 4mm banana jacks and the AC power inlet.
The lid should now fit all the way down onto the slide switches' actuators and rest on the lip of the rocker switch.
DIMP (Desulfator in My Pocket)
Energy Solutions. Patent-free Technology. This eBook is best read using Adobe Acrobat Reader. This eBook is a direct electronic representation of the physical book , therefore, it is not optimized for. We kept it this way to allow reference, to exact locations in all versions, when answering questions or addressing corrections. The eBook page numbers may not match the PDF le page numbers.
CAPACITIVE BATTERY CHARGER
Times are hard. The circuit consists of nothing.. I was going over a request for a solar battery charger, and one of the points was a Low Voltage alarm.. Then I decided to look at George Wiseman's capacitive charging circuit and what a huge. Capacitive Battery Charger.